Competition law enforcement - a fashion faux pas?

On 14 October 2025, the European Commission announced the imposition of fines of over €157 million on three luxury fashion brands, Gucci, Loewe and Chloé following their engagement in resale price maintenance (“RPM”).

RPM constitutes a “hardcore restriction” under the EU Vertical Block Exemption Regulation and has been repeatedly condemned by the Commission and national competition law authorities. It involves the imposition upon distributors of minimum or fixed resale prices. This restricts the ability of distributors to independently determine their own prices on the downstream market.

Conduct and investigation

As is often the case, the Commission carried out dawn raids at the premises of Gucci (Italy), Chloé (France) and Loewe (Spain).

The Commission’s investigation identified that all three organisations independently engaged in RPM by restricting the ability of both their online and brick-and-mortar retailers (including independent resellers) to determine their own retail prices. The restrictions applied to almost the entire ranges of products designed by the three organisations under their respective brand names include apparel, leather goods, shoes and accessories.

The three organisations interfered with the independent commercial strategies of their retailers, depriving them of their independence on the market. They did so by imposing restrictions requiring the retailers not to deviate from (i) recommended retail prices (ii) maximum discount rates and (iii) specific sale periods. In certain cases, they also prohibited retailers from offering any discounts.

They sought to guarantee compliance with the restrictive agreements by monitoring the retailers’ prices and contacting those who had deviated from the pricing policies imposed.

The Commission’s primary concern was that these anti-competitive practices deprived retailers of their pricing independence and reduced competition among them. The Commission found that this resulted in higher prices and reduced choice for consumers.

Enforcement

In accordance with the Commission’s antitrust cooperation procedure, fine reductions were applied following cooperation by all three organisations.

The fines imposed were:

Company Reduction for cooperation Fine (after reduction)
Gucci 50% €119 674 000
Chloé 15% €19 690 000
Loewe 50% €18 009 000

Message from the Commission

The Commission’s announcement sends a clear signal that RPM is an enforcement priority and that the retail sector, including fashion and luxury goods, are under continued scrutiny.

Several recent RPM cases have involved fashion brands. In 2024, the Commission fined fashion brand, Pierre Cardin, €7 million for preventing cross-border sales to retailers that sold the clothes to consumers at lower / discounted prices.

Follow-on damages claims

The Commission’s press release reminds affected parties that they have the opportunity to bring a follow on damages claim based on the established breach of EU competition law.

Key takeaways 

The Commission’s announcement provides several key takeaways for all businesses, particularly those in the retail sector.

  1. RPM carries serious risks and is an enforcement priority
  • Businesses should ensure that their retail prices remain genuinely non-binding (avoiding the direct or indirect imposition of minimum prices, capped discounts or mandated sales periods).
  1. Online sales restrictions remain under scrutiny by competition regulators
  • Both the Commission and national competition law authorities have adopted a strict stance on restrictions to online sales.
  • The Commission’s announcement notes that in addition to RPM, Gucci engaged in online sales restrictions, likely contributing to Gucci’s higher fine.
  1. Prepare for dawn raids
  • Regulators have broad investigatory powers and can conduct unannounced inspections.
  • Businesses should prepare for an unannounced inspection and have in place an up-to-date dawn raid policy including a list of approved external professional advisers who will attend in the event of a dawn raid.

If your business doesn’t have a dawn raid policy or if you would like to discuss how to manage competition law risks, please contact us.

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